The Big Lap

The Age

Saturday April 28, 2007

Jeremy Gough

The great outdoors, communal campfires, and the camaraderie of other "nomads" are all part of life on the road for those driving around Australia. Jeremy Gough reports.

THE term "grey nomad" conjures up images of crackling fires, magnificent sunsets and happy-hour drinks among newly acquainted campers. Australia's over-50s are healthier, wealthier and more adventurous than ever, and they're deserting their suburban lives in record numbers.

According to the Caravan, RV and Accommodation Industry of Australia, there are 350,000 registered recreational vehicles (RVs) in Australia. A national circumnavigation - "the Big Lap" - has become something of a rite of passage.

There are three kinds of grey nomads: the long-term travellers; the six-month-or-so trip-of-a-lifetimers; and the seasonal sun-seekers who spend three or four months a year travelling in warmer climates before returning home for the summer.

The nation's camping grounds and caravan parks are surprisingly egalitarian. Battlers in tatty old vans mix freely with wealthy retirees in $200,000 luxury motorhomes, and it seems everyone wants to talk about the same things: cheap fuel spots, road conditions, free camping areas and which van to meet at for sunset drinks. No matter who you ask what the best thing about travelling Australia is, the answer will be the same: the people you meet.

Vince and Carol Brown, of Coffs Harbour, returned recently from a six-month odyssey around the country. "It was just a wonderful experience," Carol says.

"There are so many travellers of our age out there taking long-term trips and it is easy to meet like-minded people. Before you say anything to anybody you already know you've got something in common, and everyone loves to discuss where they've been, how they like certain places and where they're going next."

Vince says: "We would often bring our camp chairs and drinks for happy-hour sessions around communal camp fires and exchange stories and advice. It is such a great atmosphere and we have so many wonderful memories. Everyone looks after each other on the road - there certainly is a sense of camaraderie."

The Browns, both aged in their mid-60s, say the best thing about travelling this way is the sense of freedom.

"We had no timetable, no set destinations to visit and no responsibilities," Carol says. "Some days we travelled a couple of hundred kilometres and other days we just decided to stay put. It was very relaxing and incredibly liberating."

It sounds easy. Do some research, find yourself a caravan, tell the kids to forward the mail and head for the hills. But life on the road is not for everybody.

Worth considering are the comparatively cramped living conditions, long days of driving, the uncertainty of not knowing where you'll be sleeping each night and the prospect of spending nearly 24 hours a day in close proximity to your nearest and dearest. Relationships 40 or 50 years old can be put under serious stress when couples step out of their comfort zones.

There's homesickness, too. The prospect of missing grandchildren's birthdays or family gatherings can make camp sites in the Kimberley seem painfully remote, although the ubiquity of the internet, advanced telephone technology and cheaper domestic flights have all helped to ease the pain of separation.

Only a few thousand of the millions of older Australians who dream of joining the grey nomads will actually do so this year, and anxiety about money is the main determinant. So how do these ever-smiling, ever-relaxed characters finance their carefree lifestyles and how do they afford their rigs in the first place?

Grey nomads travel in caravans, fifth wheelers, motorhomes, converted buses, campervans and camper trailers, and a few hardy souls tough it out in tents. You can spend a few thousand dollars on a second-hand outfit and a few hundred thousand dollars on the latest high-tech, high-luxury rig (see box on page 4).

Most older Australians travelling for a reasonable length of time expect a certain level of comfort and many consider toilets, showers and even washing machines to be indispensable. Recreational vehicle manufacturers report an increasing demand for bigger, American-style motorhomes. Some traditional Australian caravan parks are already struggling to cope with models up to 12 metres long.

The Browns used a comparatively modest 3.8-metre long pop-top caravan, towed by a Subaru Forester, and were happy with their choice.

"Although our van is a lot smaller than many others out there, it suited us to a tee, and our four-wheel-drive gave us the opportunity to take some rough tracks when we chose to drop the van for a while," Vince says. "Anyway, we spent much of our time sitting outside."

Once on the road, the biggest grey nomad expenses are food, fuel and camping. You may be able to save a few dollars by shopping around, but food and fuel are largely fixed expenses.

Travellers say the only way to reduce weekly fuel bills is to travel more slowly, or not to travel as much - but it would be a shame to miss seeing a magnificent gorge or waterfall because of the cost of travelling an extra 50 kilometres. Most grey nomad couples say they can get by on about $100 a week for food and the basics - more if dining out is on the agenda; considerably less if the fishing rods are getting a good workout.

The biggest variable in the grey nomad budget is accommodation. While there is no shortage of free bush camps in beautiful locations, there are also plenty of caravan parks that will charge you heavily to stay with them. A powered site generally costs between $20 and $30 for two people a night, depending on the facilities - but it can be a lot more. During peak periods, you can pay up to $75 a night camping in resort-style parks where facilities can include swimming pools, spas, tennis courts, mini-golf and nightly entertainment.

Like most grey nomads, the Browns used a mixture of camping areas, often staying in the bush for a while and then heading into caravan parks to do their laundry and enjoy a hot shower. They were drawn to the national parks; many offer camping areas and charge around $5 per person a night, with facilities typically including a drop toilet and not much else.

While security problems at Australian camp areas are incredibly rare, sometimes in lonely spots it is impossible to shake images of mad axe murderers. There is comfort in numbers and by 4pm clusters of grey nomad vans will generally appear at free camp sites around the country. In general, the only time other people are a nuisance is when groups of youngsters gather for a few weekend drinks, normally at camps near towns.

While some grey nomads are sufficiently comfortable to be able to rent out their home or allow relatives to look after it while they're away, others see selling up as the only way to finance their trip of a lifetime. Financial advisers caution wannabe travellers to think carefully about taking such a step. A sudden influx of cash can have implications for pension entitlements and grey nomads must also give careful thought to what happens when their travelling eventually ends. While many people find it hard to think that far ahead, some say they will set up home in a caravan park or return to live with relatives.

The Browns say they met many travellers who had sold their homes to finance their trips and most were relaxed and upbeat about their decision.

"I think those people are very brave, because I reckon it would be too hard to sell your home and travel endlessly," Vince says.

While the Browns were on the road for a limited time and so did not need to think about work, some older travellers are keen to pick up casual employment. This is often easy in remote areas, where employers can struggle to attract staff. General maintenance and domestic positions often come up on cattle stations and farms, and fruit pickers are in constant demand. Grey nomads are also perfectly suited to house-sitting and to camp-hosting in national parks.

And what about living at such close quarters? Even after 42 years of marriage, the Browns found being together 24/7 required some adjustments.

"I think you get to know yourself and each other a lot better on a long trip," Carol smiles. "We certainly found that we knew when to say something to each other and when it was best to leave well enough alone.

"When you're at home, you do separate things during the day. On the trip we were never really more than the length of the van park away from each other and you have to make allowances for that. I think we coped pretty well."

Ultimately, the reason grey nomads choose to travel for months, years and sometimes decades is that there is so much to see in this amazing country. From the outback to the lush rainforests, from soaring mountains and awe-inspiring waterfalls to roaring rivers and endless beaches, from cities to remote roadhouses, the nation is full of fascinating sights and people.

Any final advice for those considering taking the plunge?

"I would say just do it," Vince says emphatically. "Just do it, before it's too late."

Jeremy Gough and his family recently spent two years travelling and camping around Australia. The Grey Nomad's Guidebook, by Jeremy and Cindy Gough, is published by Pan Macmillan, $24.95.

Selecting your house on wheels

Choosing the right rig for the big trip can be tricky. You need to consider your budget, desired level of comfort, fuel-efficiency requirements and camping plans.

Caravans: Still the most popular grey nomad-mobile, caravans offer drop-and-go convenience, as much comfort as you want (or can afford) and a sense of security. But towing a caravan can be stressful. Reversing into tight spots in caravan parks can also be a challenge. Some nomads are turning to the American-inspired fifth wheeler, which is towed by, and overhangs the rear of, a ute or truck and has improved towing stability.

Motorhomes: Top-of-the-range models, up to 12 metres long, come with all mod cons, sometimes including slide-out rooms. Setting up camp with a motorhome is as easy as switching off the engine and changing seats. On the downside, travelling in a motorhome can restrict your mobility once you've set up camp.

Camper trailers: The simple concept of a canvas structure folding out from a trailer has been finessed and there are some ingenious and surprisingly comfortable rigs out there.

Managing the nomadic life

- Have your mail forwarded to you by a friend, family member or mail-forwarding service. You can collect your mail free from any post office in the country.

- Use internet banking to make your life on the road easier.

- If you haven't sold your home, don't forget to budget for regular expenses such as rates, insurance and maintenance.

- Seek professional advice before making major decisions such as selling your home to finance your trip, or cashing in superannuation.

- Talk to your motoring club (e.g. RACV) about upgrading roadside assistance coverage. It could save you a small fortune if you encounter mechanical problems in remote country.

- Travelling light can help keep fuel bills down; so can travelling with the wind behind you.

- The best things in life are free. Enjoy the scenery, the company and the fresh air.

Nomad websites

News, information and advice: thegreynomads.com.au

National parks: australiannationalparks.com

Independent reports on selected caravan parks: home.vicnet.net.au/~badger04

Details on financial matters for retirees: nicri.org.au

Fruit-picking opportunities Australia-wide: jobsearch.gov.au/harvesttrail

Advice on how and where to fossick: gemfossicking.com.au

First-aid training and first-aid kits: stjohn.org.au